For this month’s garment sewing challenge, I made two Shirt no. 1′s. Sonya Philip of 100 Acts of Sewing taught this class a few years ago at Craftcation but I was unable to take it. So I was excited to see she was going to be teaching it for Creativebug and couldn’t wait to watch the class. In the class, she teaches four varations. The first Shirt is a sloper or starting point for other variations. The second variation adds a yoke, the third adds a yoke and biased cut bottom and the last variation adds buttons to the shirt.
My first Shirt no. 1
I started with the first version to see what, if any, changes I would want to make before I went onto another variation. Based on experiences with other patterns and a quick measurement of the pattern compared to my body, I decided to add two inches to the length. Other than that, I followed my bust size to determine my size. Using Robert Kaufman lawn designed by Liesl Gibson, here is my “wearable muslin”:
My second Shirt no. 1
I wore the first version for a couple days to determine what changes I wanted to make. It seemed to fit in my bust but I needed a bit more shape in my stomach/hip area. I graded the side seams to be two sizes smaller than the bust/arm area.
Since Sonya teaches you how to adjust the neckline to fit you, I decided I needed to move down the neckline a bit more on this second version. (She assumes a high neckline, which I really appreciate. It’s so much easier to move it down as opposed to figure out the right angle to move it up.)
I wanted just a little bit more length so the second version was lengthened two and a half inches. I also decided to use French seams for a more polished look and used bias tape instead of hemming.
This chambray came from my local fabric swap meet, the yoke is Cotton and Steel and the bias tape was made from extras from my first version. The skirt is self drafted.